Ilfracombe

• Tunnels Beach.

A new optimism is abroad in Ilfracombe, often described as the “jewel in North Devon’s crown.”

For years, it suffered from a reputation for being down at heel — but not any longer. The Pier has been refurbished with new landing stages and the High Street has been given a facelift, making it more pedestrian friendly.

Famous artist Damien Hirst has developed a classy restaurant on The Quay.

There is even talk of a breakwater to create a marina and a ferry service to Wales and even Ireland.

Developers seem to be falling over themselves to build high-class apartments, Sainsbury’s are building a supermarket and local entrepreneur John Fowler – of John Fowler Holidays fame – has revealed plans to build a £20 million all-year-round holiday park and conference centre on the outskirts of the resort.

Local businessmen are talking about Ilfracombe rivalling the success of Rock and Padstow in Cornwall, made famous by TV chef Rick Stein.

Although Ilfracombe has a new-found confidence in its future, it is also immensely proud of its past.

Many Victorian buildings have survived the years to give the resort a uniqueness which it marks each year with an annual Victorian celebration in June, which draws visitors from around the world.

The whole town turns back the clock! People in beautifully made costumes promenade on the sea front and shopkeepers sport striped aprons. There are bands, suffragettes, bathing belles and a host of fun events.

Ilfracombe is very much a family holiday resort – the biggest on the North Devon coast. It has pleasure boats, the big ships Waverley and Balmoral call regularly, fishing trips can be booked from The Pier and there are amusement arcades, a bandstand, shops, restaurants and cafes.

A major feature of its appeal is the grandeur of the scenery and the inner harbour, which fills up with bobbing boats during the summer.

Lantern Hill overlooks the Pier and harbour and is topped by a chapel, ancient even in Victorian days. Built in 1320, it is dedicated to St Nicholas – patron saint of sailors – and doubles as a lighthouse.

And then there is Capstone Hill. A path zig-zags 200 feet to the top for a panoramic view that’s well worth the effort to see.

A footpath around the base of the hill has been closed for several years, however, because of the danger of rock falls. As this summer began, a tender for repair work to the cliff face was accepted and safety work due to begin. It is fervently hoped that the path can be re-opened this summer.

Bicclescombe Park has good outdoor sports facilities plus a water mill in working order with waterfalls, lakes, tea rooms and gardens.

Ilfracombe High Street is a joy to shop in. It is proud of its many individual family businesses which have long traditions of personal, friendly service.

Ilfracombe Museum houses some 20,000 exhibits which offer a fascinating look at the town’s past. It is also a brass rubbing centre – fun for the kids if it’s a wet afternoon!

Bucket and spade holidaymakers head for the Tunnels beaches (once segregated for men and women). The passage through the cliff was hewn by Welsh miners. In fact, a network of hand-carved tunnels lead to unique sheltered beaches and a tidal Victorian bathing pool. Whether on an historical evening stroll or a family day out, the Tunnels are a must-see attraction, whatever the weather.

One of the newest attractions in in the resort is the Ilfracombe Aquarium in the former lifeboat house on the Pier. Here, you can follow a local stream from source to the sea, and get a close-up look at what life is like beneath the waves just off the coast of Ilfracombe. Fascinating!

On Ilfracombe’s outskirts is lovely Hele Bay with its small beach and rockpools and a paddling pool that fills with seawater at high tide. The beach is so lovingly cared for by local residents and business people that it is entitled to fly a flag for cleanliness.

A few minutes’ drive from Hele is Watermouth Bay, a natural anchorage for boats. The cliffs around the bay give lovely views and places to picnic. It’s not surprising that Ilfracombe is called the jewel in North Devon’s crown. As a Victorian postcard puts it: “I am quite taken with this place”.